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Purification of 2 anti-aging extracts from boreal forest biomass & conception of a eco-responsible dermocosmetic line.

1) development and scale up of green purification processes of two active extracts 2) identification of active principles and their content in both extracts through a bioguided fractionation method 3) design of a complete dermocosmetic line formulated with qc forest biomass developed ingredients

Context: BIO FOREXTRA INC. leads several continuous research programs that aim to develop standardized natural active ingredients dedicated to skin care and fighting against skin aging. The particularity is that these ingredients are obtained specifically from the extraction of tree barks. Barks is a co-product of wood first transformation and is produced in large amount in Quebec. Barks are mainly burned to produce energy or to serve as compost in agriculture. However, an extraction step before the final conversion of this sustainable resource is an added-value, a way of discovering new natural bio-active molecules serving as new and eco-responsible raw material for the cosmetic industry. First screenings of various barks from Quebec Boreal forest species such as maple, spruce, birch and pine has shown that red maple and black spruce bark extracts were very rich in polyphenols, compounds of which bio-activities are well represented in scientific literature. After several years of development, these extracts were considered of commercial interest by Bio ForeXtra due to their strong efficacy as anti-aging and skin protection agents and their safety. The commercialization of these extracts intended for dermo-cosmetic personal care industry started in January 2016 during the Cosmetagora show in Paris in collaboration with ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL. Alban Muller, 40 years of expertise in the field of plant extraction, works with Bio ForeXtra for their extraction process industrial scale up and has permit the first high quality grade industrial production of Quebec forest biomass. All processes used are green and eco-responsible. The two companies has started a strong transatlantic partnership to extract forest biomass at the industrial scale and to commercialize high-tech natural ingredients for cosmetic industry. An interesting fact is that the first developed extracts described in the previous paragraphs were obtained from a one step and direct extraction process. These extracts called "crude extracts" have shown efficacy as synergic mixtures of natural compounds without the need of any purification step. Considering the phenolic composition of both crude extracts (in average 40% of the total extracts), it was interesting to consider a second step consisting in purification of both extracts and isolation of their respective active principles. This purification could permit to design new highly active and performant ingredients for skin care and other high added-value applications such as nutraceuticals which could be considered in a business development perspective. Indeed it is well-known that some compounds present in a crude extract could have an antagonist effects (decreasing the total activity of the ingredient); could be simply non active; could play a role in cytoxicity limiting the level use of the ingredient in the final product. In another point of view, this project will allow to develop an efficient purification process and do the immediate scale up. The innovation that will be generated with this project will permit us to keep the market's interest and to provide innovative, eco-responsible and highly efficient natural ingredients. Briefly, the objectives in this project are therefore to 1) carry out a purification of two anti-aging crude extracts developed in Bio ForeXtra first programs 2) conduct a pilot and industrial scale of the purification process 3) design a dermo-cosmetic line of tested efficacy containing the boreal forest biomass actives. Both companies involved in that current project share eco-responsible values and are preoccupied by their impact on the planet. The objective is to add value to sustainable and local resources. The use of only green processes is very important for both companies. The economic results are very interesting considering that this project will provide new natural and eco-responsible solutions to a cosmetic industry more an more involved in green concept and preoccupied by environmental issues as well as the informed consumer.
Acronym: 
BOREALINE
Project ID: 
10 699
Start date: 
04-04-2016
Project Duration: 
23months
Project costs: 
320 000.00€
Technological Area: 
Biotreatment / Compost / Bioconversion
Market Area: 

Raising the productivity and competitiveness of European businesses through technology. Boosting national economies on the international market, and strengthening the basis for sustainable prosperity and employment.