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Performance exploration of a new active system in galenic makeup support

Makeup products usually have a drying effect for the skin. The aim of this project is to develop makeup with moisturizing properties and then to make it functional for cosmetic applications with various benefits for the skin such as anti-aging, concealer, etc.

Traditional creams bring short term hydration to the skin due to the fast evaporation of water in the emulsion. The active ingredients are left unprotected at the surface of the skin and hence they lose their virtues due to air-induced oxidization and degradation and they do not contribute to improving skin condition. Furthermore, pollution increasing and climate change create needs for a better hydration of the skin. In order to solve this problem, we designed a disruptive solution which is a non-wall entrapment system that rapidly transports active ingredients across the skin barrier. By efficiently penetrating the skin, the system eliminates surface saturation and degradation of the active ingredients by environmental factors. Our solution is composed of solid and homogeneous non-wall micro-particles that accommodates and transports active ingredients to help restore the lipidic structure of the epidermis and renew skin health. This has the following advantages: - Rapid penetration and no surface saturation; - Active molecules are transported in different skin layers at high concentrations; - Bioavailability is increased; - Delicate active ingredients are protected and transported in depth; - Skin is nourished and regenerated by the vectors’ components themselves; - Long-lasting hydration; - Decrease in the amount of active ingredient to use. Our solution efficiently entraps lipophilic and hydrophilic active ingredients. It encapsulates, retain and protect a high dose of lipophilic active ingredients. However, through careful optimization of formulation and preparation method, we are also capable to encapsulate a high dose of hydrophilic active ingredients which none of the existing delivery systems can achieve. Existing solutions can only encapsulate high doses of hydrophilic ingredients. Up until now, our system has proven to be effective regarding moisturizing properties, stabilizing / protecting abilities and promoting rapid penetration and active molecule accumulation in the skin. These micro-particles are thus far deposited on textile substrates, (in order to create infusers). They could, however, be integrated into different galenics. The main objectives are to study the feasibility and integrate microvectors in various categories of make-up. Depending on the theoretical compatibility with current processes, the first targeted benefits to be added will be hydration by powders and emulsions as well as nail repair. Afterwards, other benefits can be identified and integrated after selecting the appropriate active ingredients such as: anti-aging, concealer, etc. That being said, with its micrometer size, its biomimetic composition, its ability to accommodate a cocktail of active molecules, and its low production costs, our solution compare advantageously to other delivery systems and are expected to have a wide positive impact on active ingredient transport across several different applications in cosmetics and drug products.
Acronym: 
CCHA1-10
Project ID: 
12 222
Start date: 
01-01-2018
Project Duration: 
12months
Project costs: 
750 000.00€
Technological Area: 
CHEMISTRY, PHYSICAL AND EXACT SCIENCES
Market Area: 
Health and beauty aids

Raising the productivity and competitiveness of European businesses through technology. Boosting national economies on the international market, and strengthening the basis for sustainable prosperity and employment.